叙非遗·寻找记忆｜贵州清镇四印苗挑花艺术将亮相米兰时装周

贵州省清镇市麦格苗族布依族乡，是典型的少数民族聚居区。散居在这里的人群，主要是苗族支系之一——四印苗。他们的服饰有很鲜明的特色，服饰靓丽，刺绣精巧。上衣的胸前、后背及两袖上各缀有一个用五色丝线挑花而成的正方形图案，恍若四尊大印，古朴迷离。

Located in Qingzhen, a county-level city under the administration of Guiyang, capital of Guizhou Province, the Maige Miao and Bouyei ethnic township is a region mainly inhabited by the “Four Seals Miao”, a branch of the Miao people. Their clothing has distinctive features, with a five-color square pattern embroidered on the chest, the back and two sleeves of the upper garment. The four square patterns look like four seals, mysterious and ancient.

“四尊大印”图案是四印苗的民族符号，透过这些依附在图案上的信息，“复制”了他们历史的“窗口”和“活化石”。服饰图案记录了本民族的族源史、迁徙史和生存史，充分展示了四印苗女高超刺绣功底和对民族传承的延续，也更加体现了四印苗盛装的艺术性，向世人诠释着四印苗悠久的历史和灿烂的文化。

The Four Great Seals are the symbol of the Four Seals Miao people. Through the patterns on the seals, the Four Seals Miao people have captured the history of their origin, migration and survival. These patterns demonstrate the artistic quality of the Four Seals Miao’s splendid attire and the superb embroidery skills of the Four Seals Miao women. They also serve as the “living fossil” of the long history and splendid culture of the Four Seals Miao people.

四印苗绣有四种绣法，锁针、插针、网绣、十字挑花绣。最主要的针法是网绣和锁绣，现在的服装用得较多的是十字挑花绣。整套服饰包括：头帕、衣服、裙子，均为手工制作。四印苗的服饰的技艺需要沉下心勤学苦练才能掌握精髓，工艺需要后继有人，民族传统才能代代延续。

The Four Seals Miao people use four types of embroidery techniques, namely lock embroidery, sticking, net embroidery and cross-stitching. Net embroidery and lock embroidery are the two main methods, while cross-stitching is more commonly used in modern tailoring. The whole outfit of the Four Seals Miao includes a head scarf, an upper garment and a dress, all of which are handmade. Strenuous effort is required by those who wish to become a master of the embroidery techniques of the Four Seals Miao people. Only when these techniques have inheritors, can ethnic traditions be passed down.

“四印”苗族盛装制作，展现了苗族女性高超的美术创造才能，同时也是复制四印族传统文化的有效工具。盛装的制作过程具有重大的历史价值、文化价值、社会价值和艺术价值。四印苗族是一个迁徙的民族，他们把服装作为一条联接这个民族的纽带，是服装使他们产生一体感、归属感，是服装的纹饰和图案这种特殊的“语言”使他们产生了凝聚力。

Of great historical, cultural, social and artistic values, the making of the Four Seals Miao’s clothing not only shows the Miao women’s artistic talent, but also serves as an effective tool to carry on the traditional culture of the Four Seals Miao. As a migrating ethnic group, the Four Seals Miao people regard clothing as a special bond and the patterns on their clothing as a special language. It is their clothing that gives them a sense of unity and belonging and the patterns on their clothing that help bind them closer together.